New York magazine never ceases to amaze me. Their Approval Matrix is practically the eighth wonder of the world. Their Restaurant Guide is an impeccable resource. And this week they’ve outdone themselves. Yes, their sure-to-provoke article on NYC neighborhoods is a must-read but Polloplayer’s heart really went pitty-pat when I turned to page 83 and saw this headline: “Pullet Eggs”. Talk about ruling the roost! Yay NY mag!
I’ve been meaning for some time to post about a paragraph I read in one of my myriad of chicken-keeping books that referenced a tradition among Swiss chefs of rotating recipes using eggs by seasons. The claim is that spring eggs taste different than winter eggs, probably due to changes in diet for that mythical creature, the pastured chicken. Our three girls, for instance, had plenty of worms on their menu last month when it rained so much. Right now they’re focusing on the salad course with all the new grass that’s growing on the front lawn. Apparently some can detect subtle changes in the taste of eggs based upon these dietary shifts. (“Some” would not include me, as I have yet to eat one of the girls’ eggs…)
The NY mag piece on pullet eggs (a pullet is a female chicken less than one year of age) includes this quote: “Compared with the average supermarket variety, eggs from contented, pastured chickens produce richer yolks and perkier whites.” Well, we already knew that, didn’t we? It goes on to share a recipe for Flan de Yema from Txikito restaurant. You can find it here: http://nymag.com/restaurants/recipes/inseason/65345/